Bandeja Paisa: The History & Art of a Classic Colombian Breakfast
In Colombia, Bandeja Paisa is an iconic, delicious, and, above all, gigantic dish. Discover the secrets of this popular Colombian meal with Caravan’s expert guides.
What Is Bandeja Paisa?
The literal English translation of “Bandeja Paisa” would be “platter of Paisa.” It is, in essence, the heart of the Paisa region of Colombia on a plate. It typically includes a maize stew or pudding called “mazamorra,” a savory stuffed arepa, pinto beans, rice, a fried egg, diverse pork parts cooked several different ways, and semi-sweet, savory fruits like avocado and plantains.
As the dish’s popularity spread from Paisa nationwide, it became adopted and adapted in a wide variety of Colombian regions.
What Is The Paisa Region In Colombia?
Paisa is a northwestern part of Colombia among the Andes mountains. It encompasses six departments (formal regions): Antioquia, Caldas, Risaralda, and Quindío in full, and portions of Tolima and Valle del Cauca. Medellín, Pereira, Manizales and Armenia are popular cities in the Paisa region.
The region was first the home of the Indigenous Caribes and Chibchas, who mingled with Andalusian, Basque, and Extremaduran immigrants, some (but not all) of whom were colonizers sponsored by the Spanish crown in the 1500s – 1600s.
The semi-isolation imposed by the mountains, and the unusual blend of cultures of origin, led the Paisa region to develop an extraordinary, unique culture. Over the centuries, Paisa’s culture birthed a regional dialect of Spanish called “español antioqueño” (Antioquian Spanish), the musical genres Pasillo and Paisa Trivia, and, of course, iconic Colombian cuisine.
Bandeja Paisa History: Origins Of An Iconic Dish
Culinary historians believe Bandeja Paisa evolved over generations and centuries, drawing on widely diverse influences. Cooks in the Paisa region used locally available resources, including pork, while influenced by culinary techniques of indigenous, Andalusian, Basque, Spanish, African, and French cultural groups.
Spanish settlers brought domesticated pigs to Colombia in 1525, solely for lard production. But, everyday folks in Paisa used all parts of the pig for food.
Paisa’s cooks cultivated the art of chicharrón (fried pork belly and pork rinds), chorizo (pork sausage), morcillo (pork blood pudding or blood sausage), ground pork meat, and pinto beans boiled and tenderized with ham hock (pork knuckle). As Spanish pigs began to breed with local pigs, new feral pigs like the zungo became common, and so too did the act of hunting and trapping them in the Colombian mountains.
As a result, varieties of pork became staple ingredients in Bandeja Paisa. Today, pork is a staple crop in Colombia.
Records of Bandeja Paisa In 1950
Over the years, the dish was adapted by many cooks. But, it wasn’t until 1950 that bandeja paisa became officially named and standardized in recipes and gastronomical studies. Naming and standardizing an “official” version of bandeja paisa gave it cultural weight internationally—and sparked significant debate among Colombia’s chefs.
Colombia’s (Unofficial) National Dish
In 2005, the Colombian government wanted to make the dramatic platter of bandeja paisa the official, national dish of Colombia. This started a big debate. Does Bandeja Paisa truly represent all of Colombia, or only the Paisa region? What exactly does official Bandeja Paisa include? Is it truly the most representative dish if most Colombians don’t eat it, or only eat it on special occasions?
Ultimately, the government put away the idea of an official national dish. But, many chefs and restaurants chose to celebrate the heritage of Colombian cuisine independently, proclaiming bandeja paisa Colombia’s (unofficial) national dish anyway.
Ingredients & Prep
There are two crucial elements of bandeja paisa:
- The beans, rice, and mazamorra must be cooked overnight, to let the flavors truly deepen
- The dish must be served on a huge tray (no diet-size plates allowed!)
Beyond that, it’s up to the individual chef the best way to prepare and plate the variety of porks, arepas, and fruit on the dish.
Popular Bandeja Paisa Varieties
Varieties of bandeja paisa can be found in almost every region and restaurant in Colombia. Popular versions of Bandeja Paisa include:
- Bandeja de Arriero, a version popularized by Colombian mule transporters
- This version sometimes included beef as well as (or instead of) pork
- Bandeja Montañera, the “mountain tray” version of the dish, incorporates more vegetables.
- This version often includes garlic, onions, tomatoes, and peeled carrots alongside the green plantain.
- Bandeja Antioqueña is a less-pork-focused version of the dish, often including steak and liver.
- In Tolima, Bandeja Antioqueña swaps out fried plantain for french fries.
- “Seven Meats Platter,” an adaptation in higher-end Colombian restaurants, elevates the dish from its “peasant” origins.
- This version adds a wider variety of meats, and it requires serving the dish on an ostentatious tray even larger than the traditional platter.
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